A simple sunscreen guide for Indian summers

Whether you live in Surat, Ahmedabad, Mumbai or Delhi, Indian summers are long and the sun is strong for most of the year. If you do only one thing for your skin, make it sunscreen. Sun exposure is behind much of the tan, dark spots, melasma and uneven tone we see in clinic, and it can undo the results of treatments such as laser and peels.

"But Indian skin doesn’t burn"

Brown skin does burn less easily than fair skin, but it pigments much more easily. Sun exposure triggers tan, dark spots and melasma, and makes pimple marks darker and slower to fade. Over the years, it also causes wrinkles, loss of firmness and rough texture. Sunscreen is just as important for Indian skin; the reasons are simply different.

Understanding the label

• SPF measures protection against UVB, the rays that cause burning. SPF 30 blocks about 97%, SPF 50 about 98%. Higher numbers add little, as long as you apply enough.
• PA+++ or PA++++ measures protection against UVA, which penetrates deeper and drives tanning, pigmentation and ageing. Look for PA+++ or higher.
• Broad spectrum means it protects against both UVA and UVB.
• Visible light, including light from the sun through windows, also worsens pigmentation in brown skin. Tinted sunscreens with iron oxides protect against it, which is especially helpful for melasma.

Chemical or mineral?

• Chemical (organic) sunscreens absorb UV. They tend to be lightweight and invisible, and suit daily wear in humid weather.
• Mineral (physical) sunscreens contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide and reflect UV. They are gentle on sensitive skin and around the eyes, but older formulas can leave a white cast. Tinted versions solve that.

Both work. Many modern sunscreens combine the two.

Choosing for your skin

• Oily or acne-prone skin: a gel, fluid or "matte" sunscreen labelled non-comedogenic. These feel lighter in humid cities and coastal weather.
• Dry skin, dry heat or winter: a cream or lotion sunscreen doubles as a moisturiser.
• Sensitive skin or stinging eyes: a fragrance-free mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide.
• Melasma or pigmentation: a tinted sunscreen with iron oxides.
• Men with beards: a gel or spray spreads more easily than a thick cream.

The best sunscreen is the one you will actually wear every day, so pick a texture you like.

How much to use

Most people use far too little, which can cut protection by half or more. For the face and neck, use about two finger-lengths: squeeze sunscreen along the length of your index and middle fingers. For the arms and legs, use about a shot-glass amount for the whole body.

When and how to apply

• Every morning, as the last step of your skincare and before makeup, even on cloudy days and indoors near windows.
• Apply 10 to 15 minutes before going out, so it settles.
• Do not forget the ears, neck, back of the hands and tops of the feet.
• Reapply every 2 to 3 hours if you are outdoors, commuting on a two-wheeler, swimming or sweating.

Reapplying over makeup

A sunscreen stick, spray or a powder sunscreen is an easy way to top up during the day without disturbing makeup.

Sunscreen is not the only protection

• Seek shade between about 11 am and 3 pm when you can.
• Wear sunglasses, a cap or hat, and use an umbrella or dupatta on long walks.
• Full-sleeve cotton clothes and gloves help a lot on two-wheelers.

After clinic treatments

After laser, peels or microneedling, your skin is more sensitive to the sun for a while. Daily sunscreen is not optional then. It protects your skin and your results, and reduces the chance of dark marks.

Common sunscreen myths

"I am indoors all day, I don’t need it." UVA and visible light pass through windows. If you sit near a window or travel during the day, wear it.

"Sunscreen causes pimples." Heavy, oily formulas can. Choose a gel or non-comedogenic product and cleanse properly at night.

"Sunscreen causes vitamin D deficiency." Vitamin D deficiency is common in India for many reasons. Daily sunscreen is unlikely to be the main cause; if you are worried, get your level checked and discuss supplements with your doctor.

"Makeup with SPF is enough." Usually not, because you would need a thick layer of foundation to reach the stated SPF. Use sunscreen underneath.

The bottom line

Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or more with PA+++, in a texture you like. Use two finger-lengths every morning, reapply when you are outdoors, and protect your skin with shade and clothing too.

Not sure which one suits your skin? Bring your current sunscreen to your next visit at Nayra Skin Clinic in Surat, and we will tell you whether it is a good match.